Nadia Lee Cohen is not just a photographer; she’s a creator of worlds that blend high glamour with surrealism. Rather than following the conventional path of capturing perfectly polished images of beautiful women, Cohen’s work delves into the eccentric, offering a distinctive perspective that challenges traditional beauty norms and societal expectations. Her photography is known for its cinematic quality, often depicting strong characters through an otherworldly lens, making her a standout figure in the art world.
Cohen describes her artistic vision as one that exists outside the realm of our everyday world. “The world I photograph and create doesn’t reside in the same world that we live in,” she says. This separation allows her to explore themes and aesthetics that are free from the constraints of contemporary beauty standards, politics, and social values. Whether working on commercial projects for high-profile brands like Miu Miu or creating personal art, Cohen’s work is characterized by its unique style and bold execution.
One of the defining features of Cohen’s photography is its deep influence from cinema. She views her work as capturing a still moment from a broader narrative, frozen in time yet rich with implied stories. This approach allows her images to convey a strong sense of drama and emotion, regardless of the context in which they are presented. “I don’t want to spell out the feelings or emotions that the viewer should gain from my images,” Cohen explains, preferring instead to leave interpretation open to the audience.
Cohen’s first major solo exhibition, “Nadia Lee Cohen. Not a Retrospective,” showcases her fascination with Americana and the seemingly mundane aspects of suburban life. The exhibition, held at La Térmica in Málaga, Spain, reflects her observations from living in the United States, particularly Los Angeles. The city has been a rich source of inspiration for her, offering a blend of artifice and reality that she finds both repelling and exhilarating.
Cohen’s journey into the world of photography began in a setting far removed from the glitz of Hollywood. Raised on a farm in rural England, she spent her early years surrounded by fields, which she believes allowed her imagination to flourish. This rural upbringing, combined with her subsequent studies at the London College of Fashion, laid the groundwork for her distinctive style. As a child, Cohen was captivated by mundane details, a fascination that continues to influence her work today.
A significant aspect of Cohen’s artistic development was her early exposure to her father’s casual photography. Despite the seemingly trivial subjects of his photos—blurry dead fish, toilet brush necks, and dirty car wheels—these images sparked a curiosity in young Cohen. She collected these “terrible Kodak prints” in a red photo album, ironically titling them “compelling photographs.” This collection nurtured her interest in capturing beauty in the ordinary, a theme that remains central to her work.
Cohen’s appreciation for the mundane is not without humor. She recalls being fascinated by the theatrical elements of fashion and people who pushed their looks to extremes during her formative years. Influences such as Donatella Versace and Paris Hilton during the early 2000s left a lasting impact on her, evident in her use of over-saturated hues and dramatic styling in her photography. Her work often features elements reminiscent of these childhood icons, such as platinum blonde hair and glossy, flawless skin, juxtaposed with unconventional and sometimes unsettling imagery.
While Cohen’s work often includes surreal and exaggerated elements, she credits film as a major influence on her style. She admires directors like Alfred Hitchcock for their ability to create tension and emotion without relying on dramatic action. Hitchcock’s use of familiar settings to evoke a sense of unease is something Cohen incorporates into her own work, using careful composition and color to create a similarly disquieting effect.
Cohen’s visual language is characterized by its meticulous attention to detail and a unique blend of nostalgia and modernity. Her work often features mannequin-like figures, rubberized skin, and stylized sets, all contributing to a dreamlike quality that is both captivating and thought-provoking. This distinctive style has not only garnered critical acclaim but also attracted major brands and publications, allowing her to infuse commercial projects with her personal artistic vision.
Despite her success, Cohen remains committed to pushing the boundaries of her art. She plans to take a break from commercial work to focus on personal projects, including a book featuring 100 nude women, which aims to explore the diversity of the female form in a way that challenges conventional beauty standards. Additionally, she is working on a longer film project, seeking to further develop her narrative storytelling skills.
Cohen’s work continues to surprise and engage viewers, offering a fresh and often provocative take on modern femininity and beauty. Her ability to blend high fashion with elements of the surreal has made her a unique voice in contemporary photography. As she continues to evolve her craft, Cohen remains dedicated to exploring the complexities of human identity and the often-overlooked beauty of the mundane. Her work not only challenges viewers to see beyond the surface but also invites them into a world where the familiar is transformed into the extraordinary.
